Besançon, the city I call home

There are cities that pass through our lives without really staying. And then there are others that stay with us for a long time, sometimes quietly, sometimes intensely. For me, Besançon clearly belongs to that second category.

Located in eastern France, very close to the Swiss border, Besançon is a city surrounded by nature. It sits inside a large loop formed by a river, the Doubs, and is surrounded by hills. When you arrive here, you often get a rare feeling: yes, you’re in a city, but you’re never far from green spaces, never far from a path, a viewpoint, or a little corner of nature where you can breathe.

The big city of my childhood, then my student years

For a long time, Besançon was “the big city” to me. The one about an hour from where I grew up, where I came only once or twice a year with my mom to buy clothes. Those days felt very special. We prepared for them, we spent the whole day there, and I really felt like I was doing something important—almost as if I grew up a little more with each visit.

Later on, Besançon became the city of my studies. It’s where I learned to be independent, to organize my daily life, and to start building my adult life. I studied English there, a language that would later play a major role in my life. When I think back on that time, what comes to mind are simple memories: daily routines, meals almost always at the same university cafeteria, student life, going out, evenings with friends, and that strong feeling of freedom you get when you live away from your parents for the first time.

Leaving… then coming back

Then, for almost fifteen years, I didn’t really come back to Besançon. Life took me elsewhere: first to Northern Ireland, then to Lille in northern France, then even farther—to Shanghai, China, and later to Michigan. And then, one day, I came back.

Coming back to a city after several years is always strange. You recognize the places, but something has changed. In Besançon, one of the most visible changes was the arrival of the tramway. Today, I see it pass under my windows, on a bridge that crosses the Doubs. Its electric blue color contrasts with the stone buildings and the surrounding nature. It’s a small detail, but one that makes me smile almost every day.

A human-sized city, surrounded by hills

Today, I live in Besançon with my family, and I can honestly say the city fits what I was looking for. It’s big enough to offer plenty of services, leisure activities, and a rich cultural life, with many free outdoor events. And at the same time, it still feels human-sized. Getting around is easy, public transportation works well—and it’s even free on Saturdays, which really changes daily life.

Besançon is surrounded by hills, each one topped with a fort. Recently, I started running again. Often, I choose to run up one of those hills. It’s not easy—your legs burn, the effort is real. But once you reach the top and look out over the city, the view is so beautiful that all the effort immediately feels worth it.

The citadel

It’s impossible to talk about Besançon without mentioning its citadel. Perched above the city, it completely dominates the landscape. Even today, I see it from my windows when I work, when I write, or when I record my podcast. Sometimes, I feel like it’s watching over the city—and a little bit over me too. The citadel isn’t just an impressive fortress: it also houses a zoo, perfect to visit with children (or without!), and several fascinating museums about history, science, and the region. Even if you know Besançon well, going up there always feels special, with a stunning view of the city and the surrounding hills.

A boat ride on the Doubs

And then there’s the Doubs, the river that wraps around the city. This summer, we took a boat ride on the river. The boat moved slowly across the water; everything felt calm, almost silent. The kids watched the landscape with wide, amazed eyes, and we even got to see the old locks up close. These moments feel almost poetic, a bit outside of time, but they really stay with you. For me, this boat ride perfectly captures the atmosphere of Besançon: a human-sized city, surrounded by nature, where you take your time. If you come to Besançon for a weekend, this is definitely an experience I recommend.

A city that follows a life

For me, Besançon is all of this at once. A city of memories, a city of learning, a city of departures and returns. A city where stone, water, greenery, culture, and everyday life all come together. A city that evolves—just like we do.

And you—do you have a city that has followed you through different moments of your life? A city you left and then found again, changed, but still familiar?



If you enjoyed this article, don't miss the Podcast episode on "Besancon, ses collines, mes souvenirs et sa citadelle", you'll love it !

written by Estelle Materne